Tasting Notes:
Blackberry
Vanilla Custard
Graham Cracker
Producer: Reyes Torres
Municipality: El Escobal, Mataquescuintla
Processing: Washed
Variety: Pacas and Pache san Ramon
Altitude: 1600m

Background info: Each year we bring in two coffees from Mataquescuintla, one from Abel Ortiz and the other from Reyes Torres. Located in a lesser known region of Guatemala, the producers of Mataquescuintla have had little access to specialty markets. As a result, the prices they received were based on the terrible low commodity price of coffee, or “C-price”, often lower than costs of production. On top of this, producers in the region have been further strained by violent social conflict surrounding the proposed expansion of the Escobal mine, owned by Vancouver-based Pan American Silver. The indigenous Xinca Parliament has repeatedly voiced opposition, plebiscites have shown 98% of locals in the surrounding towns are opposed, and peaceful protests were organized demanding consultation and transparency. In response, paramilitary security forces were deployed by the mining company, injuring and killing land defenders. To this day, producers face death threats and are systematically criminalized.

Having read about the conflict, Drew Johnson of Bows & Arrows Coffee in Victoria, BC travelled to the community, where he met Alex Reynoso. Alex is the unofficial leader of the coffee producers in the area, and an organizer in the local resistance. Drew then called on roasters back home to help, and a group of mostly BC-based coffee companies formed a makeshift buying group in 2019 with the goal of paying higher prices and forming longevity and stability with our commitments. The group collectively purchased over 40 thousand kilos of coffee that first year. This is the sixth harvest that the group has been together. This is not the type of glamorous or romanticized discourse we’re used to in coffee, but it’s important to add context to the lived realities of producers.

Reyes’ coffee was fruitier this year, reminding us of blackberries and vanilla custard. The warmth of graham cracker rounds out the cup, making it a dessert in a cup.